Functions of Corrugated box

Corrugated box design is the process of matching design factors for corrugated fiberboard boxes with the functional physical, processing and end-use requirements. Packaging engineers work to meet the performance requirements of a box while controlling total costs throughout the system.

Corrugated boxes are used frequently as shipping containers. Boxes need to contain the product from manufacturing through distribution to sale and sometimes end-use. Boxes provide some measure of product protection by themselves but often require inner components such as cushioning, bracing and blocking to help protect fragile contents. The shipping hazards depend largely upon the particular logistics system being employed. For example, boxes unitized into a unit load on a pallet do not encounter individual handling while boxes sorted and shipped through part of their distribution cycle as mixed loads or express carriers can receive severe shocks, kicks,
etc
Ordinary shipping containers require printing and labels to identify the contents, provide legal and regulatory information, and bar codes for routing. Boxes that are used for marketing, merchandising, and point-of-sale often have high graphics to help communicate the contents. Some boxes are designed for display of contents on the shelf. Others are designed to help dispense the contents. Popular for their strength, durability, lightness, recyclability, and cost-effectiveness, corrugated boxes are used for the shipping of a variety of items. Due to the quality and safety of packaging items in corrugated boxes, they are used widely in the food industry. The boxes handle the pressure that comes with stacking, making them ideal for easy transporting.

More than 95% of all products in the United States are shipped in corrugated boxes. Corrugated paperboard accounts for more than half of all the paper recycled in the US.

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Mosaic Tips

• Start simple.
• Make a small mosaic plaque before you mosaic a wall or floor. That way you can work out your materials and methods before the big job.
• How can you draw a design? Simple drawings like those in a coloring book work best. The color and the details come when you add the tile and glass. I always sketch something on paper and then come home and draw a simple cartoon on my plywood or concrete board using a magic marker.
• My first rule of grouts is to choose a contrasting color. If you use white grout with white tile or grey grout with grey tiles, then the tiles don’t stand out from the grout, and most of the detail of your design will be lost.
• My personal second rule of grouts is that DARKER GROUTS ALMOST ALWAYS LOOK BETTER. I have almost always been disappointed when using plain white grout. White grout makes a nice mosaic look like a summer camp project! Try an off-white or light beige if you think you need a light color. Also remember that grouts are much darker while they are wet and get lighter as they cure.
• Don’t know anything about glues, grouts or tiling? Your local hardware store or handyman is a mosaic expert even though they’ve never made one. (You might not know anyone who has made a mosaic, but you probably know someone who has tiled a bathroom or kitchen. The technical skills are very similar.)
• Use a wheeled glass cutter to cut glass and smalti. Use a tile nipper to cut ceramic tiles, china and other dishes.
• Always wear safety glasses when cutting tile or glass or mixing grout. (Grout is mildly caustic and has sand and grit in it.) Making a mosaic can be fun but you should always be careful.
• Grout mosaics outside. It’s a messy process. Look at books on home improvement for basic techniques of grouting if you’re not sure. Keep grout damp as it cures and do not allow it to dry out rapidly, otherwise it will crumble. Remember, the grout is binding water internally in a chemical process as it cure. It is NOT drying.
  Keep mosaic tiles and supplies out of reach of children. Use caution when handling the broken glass and ceramics.
• Spend a little more time on your mosaic. Don’t rush and don’t think about what you want to make next. It can make a world of difference in your satisfaction.
• Avoid plywood as a backer unless you can seal the edges and bottom. Wood materials absorb water over time and warp, and then grout and tiles pop off. You might not be trying to recreate a timeless Roman mosaic that will endure for centuries, but at least make something that will last 2 or 3 years. Use plywood at least 1/2″ thick inside and concrete or concrete board outside. Always use concrete or concrete board as the base of any mosaic that will be walked on. Concrete board can be purchased from building material stores. A common brand name is Wonderboard. For my indoor mosaics, I laminate 1/4″ Wonderboard to 3/8″ plywood.
• The best all-around glue for making mosaics is Weldbond. It is a water-based adhesive that looks and handles just like plain white glue, yet it cures stronger than many of the smelly solvent-based glues. The manufacturer’s brochure calls it “the most versatile, non-toxic, non-flammable adhesive on the North American market.” I agree. It bonds to hundreds of different materials and is very water-resistant once it dries. It cleans up easy with soap and water.
• If you make a mistake, don’t be afraid to pry some of the tiles off if you don’t like what you see. (Wear goggles or safety glasses with side shields.)
• I always wait for a week or two before I grout a piece. That way I have a chance to change things before they are literally set in concrete.
• Simple and crude can also be noble. It’s ok if your art has blemishes and mistakes. That’s what makes it interesting and keeps it from looking like it was made on an assembly line. Don’t try to make it a perfect reproduction of anything, and you’ll probably be much happier with the time spent and the results.

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How to Clean Natural Stone

Natural stone are beautiful additions to any home, If taken care of properly, natural stone can increase property value and aesthetic appeal to any property for years on end. however, care must be taken to keep them clean and free of damage. Although strong and hard, these surfaces are very porous and the surface can be easily stained and the polish marred.  Always follow the manufacturers instructions and use the cleaning products recommended when possible. Below are some safe cleaning tips for these surfaces.

Don´t:

Don´t use products containing lemon, vinegar, or other acids. It may dull or etch calcareous stones
Don´t use scour powders or creams; they may contain abrasives that may scratch certain stones
Don´t mix ammonia and bleach. This combination creates a toxic and lethal gas
Don´t use commercial rust removers or other cleaners that contain acid, such as bathroom cleaners, grout cleaners or tub and tile cleaners. This acid attacks silicates and minerals, and can ruin your natural stone
Don´t use a worn out vacuum cleaner. The metal or plastic attachments may scratch your stone

Do´s:

Blot spills rather than wiping the area, it’ll prevent the spill from spreading
Flush the area with water and mild soap and rinse several times
Clean floors frequently with a dust mop
Clean floors with mild detergent or stone soap
Rinse the area with clean water after washing with soap

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How to Make a stained glass mosaic portrait from a photograph

Make a stained glass mosaic portrait from a photograph

Materials and Tools:

enlarged photograph,mat board,masking tape,clear adhesive shelf liner
several colors and shades of opaque stained glass,plastic containers,glass cutter
square-nose pliers,glass nippers,tweezers,diamond wheel glass grinder,safety glasses
latex gloves,black felt-tip pen,ultra-sticky clear adhesive film,piece of tile backer board (cement board)
craft knife,epoxy adhesive,notched trowel,roll of paper towels,instant glue,premixed grout,rubber float
sponge,picture frame,books (for weight)

Steps:

1. Tape the enlarged photograph face to a piece of mat board.

2. Cut a piece of clear adhesive film slightly larger than the photo.

3. Tape the adhesive film, sticky side up, over the photo with masking tape. The paper backing covering the adhesive film will be facing up.

4. Cut through the paper backing of the adhesive film with a craft knife. Then peel away portions of the paper backing to expose parts of the photo, starting with the face. If the entire photo is exposed, it tends to pick up dust from the room and reduce the stickiness of the adhesive.

5. Wearing safety glasses, score glass of assorted colors into strips with a glass cutter and break them with square-nose pliers.

6. Cut pieces of stained-glass strips into a variety of sizes with glass nippers. Store the pieces in plastic containers divided by colors.

7. Place the mosaic pieces on the adhesive over the photo. Use the photo as a guide to create the portrait. For some sections of the face, such as the eyes, the glass pieces will need to be ground on a glass grinder to achieve the right shape or smoothness.

8. Once the design is complete, place a stickier clear adhesive film over the top of the mosaic. Use a paper towel to smooth the adhesive.

9. Trim the edges of the adhesive film with a craft knife. Grab the edges and gently flip the piece over.

10. Peel away the less sticky adhesive film, leaving the glass adhered, face down, to the stickier film.

11. Cut a piece of cement board the same size as the photograph.

12. Mix the epoxy adhesive and trowel it onto the cement board.

13. Carefully pick up the film and the glass and put it on the cement board. Place heavy books on top to weigh it down.

14. Let the mosaic dry overnight.

15. Slowly peel away the clear face mounting film from the glass. Occasionally, the odd piece of glass won't have stuck and comes up with the sticky film-reattach it with instant glue.

16. Spread premixed grout over the tiles with a flat trowel, getting it into the cracks. With a damp sponge, wipe down the tiles to remove the excess grout.

17. Put the portrait in a picture frame.

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Choosing Natural Stone Tile-Sandstone

Origin: Sandstone is a variety of ‘sedementary’ rock. It’s formed when, after being collected by subterranean rivers, or ancient ocean beds. In the case of sandstone, the key element is in the name: sand. Grains of sand are bonded while under tremendous heat and pressure to form a solid, striated and decorative natural stone.

Appearance: Sandstone tile provides you with an even surface. Depending on how it’s cut, sandstone often features striated patterns with wide color choices. The colors are typified in an earthy range of browns, gold, beige, and burnt sienna, along with natural or ‘wet’ finishes to accompany them.

Effects: Much like the other types of stone listed here, sandstone evokes the spirit of another age, while also fitting in well with modern design. It can be subdued, or vibrant, depending on your taste. In this, sandstone is extremely versatile, visually speaking.

How to use sandstone: Floor tile, wall tile, pavers

Advantages: Very durable, hypoallergenic, decorative or subdued depending on taste

Challenges: Like all natural stone, sandstone needs to be sealed. But, it’s quite susceptible to acidic materials. Watch for spills.

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Choosing Natural Stone Tile-Travertine

Origin: Much like marble, travertine is also formed by way of underground water systems. Yet, because travertine is formed at a different stage of the process, it has characteristics that are different from the veining patterns common to marble.

Appearance: When travertine is formed, the escaping gases caused by water vapor create tiny ‘pores’ in the stone. By the time it’s solid, the pores remain. This gives travertine its distinct character, along with its creamy to chocolaty color range. Often, travertine is ‘honed and filled’ for those who love the color range travertine offers, but want to get a more refined look without its distinctive pores. Some choose to go the other way, and invest in tumbled or brushed travertine, which renders a wind-worn, ancient look.

Effects: Travertine tile is used indoors and out, depending on climate, often times to get the look of the Ancient World – the Middle-East, Rome, Ancient Greece. This is where travertine had it’s heyday as a primary building material. And the imperial presence of travertine remains undeniable even today.

How To Use Travertine: flooring, countertops, cladding, coasters, pool surrounds, patio pavers, sinks, moldings and other accessories.

Advantages: A second-to-none surface when a certain warm, inviting effect is what you want. The subtle shade spectrum travertine offers makes it pretty trend-proof.

Challenges: Much like marble, spills should be seen to right away to avoid stains.

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