How to Make Ceramic Tile Look New

If you are tired of looking at the dirty and dingy tile in your bathroom or kitchen, pick up the right products to make your ceramic tile look new. Ceramic tile is a durable material made by mixing clay and sand and firing the tile in a kiln. While properly installed ceramic tiles will last for a long time, that doesn't mean they will still look good as the years add up.
Refinish It
Commercial refinish products for tile are not actually paint but an epoxy coating. These products come in two parts and, when mixed, create a chemical reaction on the tile that helps the color bind to the otherwise impervious ceramic surface. The surface of the tile will need to be thoroughly cleaned using a commercial bath and tile cleaner before the epoxy can be applied. To apply the epoxy and refinish the tile, you will need paintbrushes or foam rollers and tarps or plastic sheets to protect the area around the tile from drips.
Regrout It
Over time, mold and mildew can gain a foothold on unsealed grout and cause discoloration. Regrouting your ceramic tile may be all you need to make your tile look like new. To do this, remove the existing grout using a grout saw. Grout saws are small tools with carbide bits designed to break the grout free from the area between your tiles. Once all the old grout is gone, a grout float can be used to fill the gaps before finally sealing the new grout with a grout sealer to prevent future discoloration.

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Site Finished Hardwood

Customization Allowed with Site Finished Hardwood

Experts salute site finished hardwood for several specific reasons, foremost of which is the ability to customize the floor to the home and the surroundings. It takes a skilled workforce to install and site finish hardwood floors. But, the buyer who wants to maximize the natural beauty of hardwood will enjoy having experienced installers and hardwood finishers customize the wood to accommodate the environment for years to come.

A disadvantage of pre-finished is that the colors and finishes in the floor could be discontinued by the time hardwood floor needs repair. But, with site finished hardwood floors, the surface, borders, herringbone, inlays and other custom features can be tailor made. In most cases, site finished hardwood ends up looking and feeling warmer than pre-finished floors.

Site Finished for Kitchen Hardwood Floors

There’s more than artistry to consider when installing hardwood kitchen floors. When hardwood is site finished, a seamless, consistent surface is ensured. The gaps between hardwood planks are known as bevels and microbevels, two miniscule gaps that seem to attract liquids, cleaning products and/or food into and beneath the surface.

With site finished hardwood floors, these bevels and micro bevels are eliminated meaning that neither liquid nor food spills slip between the planks and create odors or damage to the wood. If cleanliness counts, site finished hardwood floors for the kitchen is probably the right choice.

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Mortar vs Tile Adhesive When Installing Wall Tiles

Two basic types of material are used to install wall tiles for home renovations, such as a backsplash: portland cement-based mortar, which is also known as thinset, and mastic, an organic tile adhesive used only on drywall applications like backsplashes. Both materials are suitable for backsplash applications, but both materials are not suitable for each type of tile. To determine which one to use on your backsplash, look to the tile you are installing.

Stone Tiles

Stone tiles like marble, travertine, slate and granite are also used frequently on backsplash installations. With the exception of green marble, which requires an epoxy-based mortar, all stone tiles need a white thinset mortar. This is for two reasons. Stone is porous and can stain if it absorbs color from the mortar or adhesive. Stone is also extremely heavy, and while some mastics are being produced that can hold large or heavy tiles, they are not made for use with stone tiles. If you have a stone tile backsplash, stick to white thinset mortar.

Glass Tiles

Glass is becoming an increasingly common material for backsplashes. Glass tiles can work as accent pieces or as the basis for the entire backsplash. This tile requires many special materials and processes for installing it properly, and one of these is the mortar. For a successful glass tile backsplash installation, you must use a white, latex-additive thinset mortar. This is crucial because glass is transparent, and the color of the adhesive can affect it. Glass is also nonporous, so mastic cannot dry properly behind it. Thinset cures by chemical changes, so no air is required for it to cure properly.

Ceramic Tiles

Ceramic tiles are clay-based and have a glaze covering. They are by far the most widely used tile material for wall and backsplash applications. Mastic is designed for use with ceramic tiles. It comes ready to use in buckets of all sizes, while most thinset is sold in 50-pound bags. Because backsplashes usually are around 30 square feet of space total, it makes sense to purchase a small bucket of premixed mastic for the job if you are installing ceramic tiles. If you have other tile jobs to do in the house, however, consider using thinset for all of them.

Exceptions 

Thinset mortar can be used for nearly all materials, while mastic should only be used for ceramic and some porcelain tiles. There are a few exceptions to this rule, however. One is green marble, which will "spall" or begin to scale and flake if it comes in contact with a wet mortar like thinset or mastic. This is why epoxy is used. The other exception is specific types of glass tile. There are a few manufacturers that require the use of epoxy for their product, even on backsplashes. Always read the manufacturer's instructions for recommendations on mortar type before beginning the backsplash installation.

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Things to consider when deciding what floor is right for you.

Hardwood floors are timeless and add character to any home. These classic, attractive floors aren’t to be taken lightly, however. There are a number of variables to consider when deciding what floor is right for you.

Every species used in hardwood flooring has unique properties, but the main aspects you’ll need to judge are color and grain. Different species have different colors, naturally, but the colors from specific parts of the tree tend to vary. How your wood is cut and the species determines the pattern of the grain. The finish of your floor is another important consideration: pre-finished floors are already sanded, stained, and coated with a protective finish; “finish in place” floors require these techniques after installation, but allow greater customization for your own personal touch. If you don’t like how prefinished floors have beveled edges, a site finished floor is what you’ll want. Having it sanded on site removes the need for the tiny bevels between planks.
As we’ve discussed at length before, one of hardwood flooring’s worst enemies is moisture. Consider your local climate: Drier locales may need a humidifier to counteract the climate's lack of moisture in the air. Similarly, UV rays can damage your floors, causing fades and discoloration. Window treatments help reduce this effect. Also remember to move furniture and area rugs intermittently to prevent areas of permanent discoloration. Hardwood floors are a big investment, but they transform any home into something completely different. The classics never go out of style.
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How to Attach a Glass Splashback Tile to a Wall

Glass backsplash tiles are available in a wide selection of colors, shapes and sizes. Specialty tile suppliers or your local home improvement store will have glass tile sheets available for uncomplicated installation. Cutting the tiles for a perfect fit will require a wet saw.A glass backsplash will add a sparkly, contemporary element to your kitchen or bathroom decor.
1，Measure the width and height of the backsplash area with a tape measure. Multiply the width by the height to determine the square footage needed for your glass tile sheet purchase.
2，Measure and cut adhesive tile matting with scissors to fit the tile area. The matting is extremely sticky and will adhere to almost any surface without preparation.
3，Hold a chalk line marker at the center top of the tile area and snap the line to mark a chalk plum line for tile placement.
4，Cut the tiles to fit the area with a wet saw while wearing goggles and protective gloves. Press the tiles on the matting, moving from the center plumb line to the area edges and separating the tiles with 1/4-inch spacers. After all tile has been pressed to the matting, remove the spacers.
5，Cover the tiles with premixed grout, using a grout float and pressing the grout into the spaces between the tiles. Use the edge of the float to remove the excess grout.
6，Fill a bucket with water and dip a grout sponge in the water. Wring out the sponge. Wipe the tile to remove excess grout, cleaning the sponge after every wipe. Let the grout dry for one hour. Remove the grout haze with a soft cloth.

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Some basic pieces of advice on the direction that wood flooring is laid

The direction that wood flooring is laid in a home has much to do with personal preference, however there are some basic pieces of advice to follow:

• To add depth and size to a living room, running the wood perpendicular from one end of the room to the other will allow the room to look longer.
• It is best to run the wood the length of any hallway, otherwise the hallway will appear cut up.
• If two rooms open into each other, run the hardwood along the length of both rooms, rather towards each other, to add size, depth and consistency.
• If your home is built with a "conventional" subfloor, there are supporting floor joists under your floor which usually run perpendicular to the length of the home. To maximize structural stability it's recommended your wood flooring is installed perpendicular to the joists; which is usually the more visually appealing choice anyway.

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How to Tile Over Existing Tiled Walls

Tiled walls can last many years, but that’s not always a good thing. Colorful tiles may go out of style, and some tiles are inappropriate for the space. No matter why you want another look, you can tile over existing tiles if the wall is sturdy and none of the old tiles is cracked or loose. If there are only a few loose tiles, remove and clean them, then reinstall them with fresh adhesive before retiling the wall. Epoxy tile adhesive bonds with existing tiles, making it one of the best options for tiling over an existing tiled wall.

1,Mix degreasing cleaner with water in a bucket using a dilution recommended by the cleaner manufacturer.

2,Layer newspaper on the floor across the bottom of the tiled wall.

3,Scrub the wall tiles with diluted degreasing cleaner and a nylon scrub brush. Then rinse the wall with a water-dampened sponge.

4,Put on a dust mask and sand the wall tiles with a handheld power sander and medium-grit sandpaper to roughen the surface.

5,Remove the sanding dust with a vacuum cleaner and a hose attachment, then wipe the wall with a damp sponge.

6,Apply painter’s tape around the perimeter of the tiled wall to protect the surrounding area from excess tile adhesive.

7,Put on a pair of chemical-resistant work gloves, a dust mask and safety glasses.

8,Mix epoxy tile adhesive components in a bucket using the precise ratio of materials recommended by the adhesive manufacturer. Deviating from the product’s mixing instructions can cause the adhesive’s bond to fail.

9,Scoop up epoxy adhesive on the flat edge of a trowel and spread the material over an area of the tiled wall where you can work without moving excessively. Epoxy adhesive sets quickly, so adhesive spread too far may dry before you can install the tile.

10,Spread more adhesive over the wet adhesive on the wall, this time using the notched edge of the trowel. The notched edge leaves ridges of a uniform height through the adhesive.

11,Press the tiles against the wet epoxy, inserting the appropriate spacers in between the new tiles.

12,Tap the face of each tile gently with a rubber mallet to seat them into the adhesive.

13,Let the tiled wall dry for at least one hour after the full wall is finished before grouting.

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Tips For Caring For Your Engineered Floor

Follow these helpful tips to provide preventive maintenance to your Engineered Floor. It will extend the beauty and lifespan of your investment in the home.

Place a rug around sinks to prevent water damage.
During the winter months, use a humidifier to prevent gaps or cracks.
Never use a wet mop. The standing water will dull the finish or worse, damage the wood.
Use rugs around doors to minimize dirt and debris scratching the wood floor.
Getting ready for an evening out? Carry the high heels to the front door, they can dent a wood floor.
Never slide furniture across a wood floor. Pick it up to protect the floor.
Put glides like the options available at Rockler under your furniture to avoid scuffing.
Never use vinyl or tile floor care products on wood floors. Especially self-polishing acrylic waxes that will dull quickly and loaded with chemicals that can harm the floor.
Remember, the more time you spend caring for your wood floor, the longer the floor will maintain its beauty and style.

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How to Tile Over Painted Drywalls

Tiles are ideal for bathtubs,showers and backsplashes. If you want to update your kitchen or bathroom walls with tiles, you don't have to remove existing painted drywall to do so. You can rough up the painted surface, which allows the mastic or thin-set mortar -- especially those designed for painted drywall -- to adhere.

1，Sand the wall with 80- to 120-grit sandpaper on an orbital sander's pad. Continue sanding the area until the paint is no longer shiny. Wipe the sanded wall down with a damp rag. Let the wall dry.

2,Measure the width of the wall and divide the number by two to find the center. Measure across the wall the length of the divided number and place a mark. Place a 48-inch spirit level vertically on the line. Check that the center bubble is within the etched lines, which means it is plumb, and scribe along the level edge with a pencil.

3,Measure the height of the tile with a tape measure. Measure up from the bottom of the wall the height of the tile. Add another 1/8 inch to the height measurement and place a mark on the vertical line. Place the level horizontally on this line and scribe a line for the first course of tile.

4,Apply a thin layer of mastic or thin-set mortar below the horizontal line using a grooved trowel. Move the trowel straight up to produce vertical ripples of mastic or mortar. Set the first tile next to where the vertical and horizontal lines meet on the wall. Line up the tile edges with the vertical and horizontal marks on the wall to ensure that they're level and plum.

5,Set the second tile next to the first, sandwiching two 1/4-inch spacers in between for even spacing. Check the upper edge to make sure it lines up with the horizontal line. Continue placing the first course of tiles in the same manner using spacers. Place strips of blue painter's tape over the tile face, sticking each end to the wall to prevent the tiles from sliding or falling off as the mastic sets. Allow the mortar or mastic to sit for at least 12 hours to set properly.

6,Continue the installation process with the second course of tiles by applying vertical grooved mastic above the first course slightly wider than the tile. Place a pair of 1/4-inch spacers on top of each installed tile. Place tiles on top of the spacers and align their outside edges with the bottom tiles. Continue setting tiles along each course, making sure to set a pair of 1/4-inch spacers between each of the tile edges.

7,Measure any areas that require custom-cut tiles and transfer the measurement to the tiles that you'll place there. Equip the tile saw with a tile-cutting blade or use nippers to complete the cuts. Apply the mortar or mastic in the same manner as the rest of the wall and place the tiles.

8,Apply grout to the tile using a grout spreader. Work the spreader in several different directions to push the grout into the spaces between the tile. Move the spreader down the face of the tile to remove any excess grout leaving a indentation between the tiles about the depth of your thumb tip.

9,Wipe the tile down with a damp sponge to remove any rough areas of damp grout. Allow the grout to dry following the manufacturer's directions. Clean the dried grout residue by using a grout haze remover or with a solution of one part distilled white vinegar and one part water.

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5 Healthy Reasons To Change To Wooden Floors

1，A house with wooden floors and rugs will contain only a tenth as much dust as a carpeted house.

2，Wood is a natural material and wood oils often have a strongly anti-bacterial action. Wood floors, unlike carpets, do not trap and accumulate concentrations of harmful chemicals and fumes, nor do they become homes for unpleasant parasites.

3，All carpets harbor microscopic dust-mites, whose dung when breathed in has been shown to exacerbate asthma and to trigger allergies. Estimates place the number of dust mites in one square meter of typical household carpet at between 10,000 to 100,000. Carpets also contain pet allergens, feces and urine, flea and lice eggs, traces of excreta trodden in from the garden, and high concentrations of toxic dust.

4，The New Scientist reported as recently that: A typical sample of household carpet dust sent to an environmental lab would ring alarm bells for high concentrations of heavy metals such as lead, cadmium and mercury, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), pesticides and polychlorinated biphenols (PCBs).

5，The World Health Organization and other environmental bodies recommend that in the interests of family health, consumers should seriously consider switching from carpet to wood floors.

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How to Install Mesh Mounted Slate Mosaic Wall Tiles

Slate mosaic tiles can add texture, color and interest to any wall tile design. Slate tiles measuring 2 inches and smaller are frequently mounted onto mesh sheets for easier installation. Although larger slate tiles often vary dramatically in thickness from piece to piece, mosaics can be installed without this issue; any size variation between the pieces adds to the texture of the wall. Mesh-mounted slate tiles install similarly to other mosaic tiles, with minor differences for the stone.

1,Measure the wall where you want to install the slate mosaics. Locate any wall outlets and their location. Remove the outlet covers.

2,Measure off an area on the ground nearby that matches the size and shape of the wall you will be tiling. Mark location of any wall outlets in this area with chalk.

3,Lay out the sheets of slate in the chalked off area on the ground. Cut the mesh between the mosaics with a pair of scissors to fit the sheets around the outlets and to fit the perimeter of the installation. If you need to cut the individual slate pieces, use a pair of stone tile nippers.

4,Examine the sheets of mosaic as they are laid out flat on the ground. Sometimes slate mosaic sheets are not all the same thickness; some sheets may lay significantly lower than the sheets around them. If this is the case, mark these sheets with chalk so you can recognize them easily during installation.

5,Spread a small amount of mortar onto the wall where you want to install the tiles. Use the notches on the trowel to comb the mortar to an even depth, then smooth out the ridges with the side of the trowel. This helps keep the mortar from seeping up between the slate pieces.

6,Install the sheets of mosaic on the wall in the same positions you had them on the floor. Smooth the sheets onto the wall from bottom to top with the flat of your hand. Every few sheets, set a piece of wood over the slate and beat it with a mallet to drive the tiles in.

7,Build up the thin sheets of mosaic before you place them on the wall by spreading a layer of mortar directly onto the backs of the sheets, called buttering. This extra mortar makes up any size differences between the sheets. Install the sheets like the others once you have buttered the backs.

8,Let the mortar dry for 24 hours, then seal the slate. Paint the sealer onto the slate with a foam paintbrush, taking care to get any ridges or grooves in the slate fully covered. Let the sealer penetrate for 10 minutes, then wipe away the excess with a lint-free cloth.

9,Spread grout over the entire installation with an epoxy grout float. Hold the float at a 45-degree angle to the slate to spread the grout, then scrape off any excess with the float held at 90 degrees. Let the grout set up for 10 minutes, then clean the surface of the slate with a grout sponge. Wipe the sponge in circles over the slate, rinsing it as needed to clean the mosaics. Let the grout dry for 24 hours.

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How to Install Mosaic Tile?

While mosaic tile surfaces look intricate, creating these tiled designs may not be as difficult as you expect. The options for installing mosaic tiles are to create your own designs with individual tiles or to purchase sheets of tiles mounted on a mesh backing. .
Sheet Tiles
Sheet tiles are easier than individual tiles to install as they come in sheets, typically 12-by-12-inches with the tiles already glued to a mesh backing. You just install each sheet, ensuring the correct spacing between each one, and that they're correctly aligned vertically and horizontally. If you need less than a complete sheet, cut along the mesh to obtain the required number of tiles in the shape you need. Create your own patterns by buying tiles of sheets in solid colors and cutting strips of color from each one.
Individual Tiles
Individual mosaic tiles are typically either 1-inch or 2-inches square, and laying them individually allows you total freedom in your design. However, you must line up each small tile with its neighbors and, unless you're creating an abstract, organic design, you need to draw multiple grid lines to aid the tile placement and set the tiles a uniform distance apart by using spacers. This time-consuming task means that you must cover only a small section of the surface at a time with tile adhesive so that you can place all the tiles before the glue dries.

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